Stabilised Chocolate Cream
Stabilised Chocolate Cream
One of the most common questions I get is how to replace gelatin when stabilising cream.
Here we are looking at three stabilisers – agar powder, xanthan gum and powdered gelatin to stabilise chocolate cream. Each of these stabilisers is a hydrocolloid, but all behave very differently and therefore have to be adapted to each recipe.
Agar and xanthan gum are more heat stable options that suit warmer conditions, but gelatin will result in a softer, more luscious mouthfeel. Try all three and see which you prefer!
Ingredients
Method
Add the chopped chocolate to a tall measuring jug and set aside.
Into a medium saucepan, whisk together the sugar and agar powder.
Pour in the milk and cream over the top, along with the liquid glucose (or honey). Whisk together.
Place it on a medium heat and bring it to a boil, then continue to cook for 1 minute. This is important to ensure the agar is completely dissolved and doesn't leave a gritty texture to the cream.
Remove it from the heat and pour it over the chocolate.
Allow to sit for 2 minutes, then blend until smooth with a hand blender. Stir through a pinch of flakey salt.
Transfer the mixture to a tray and cover the surface directly with clingfilm. Refrigerate for 2 hours until it feels like a squidgy, slightly gel like consistency. The mixture can chill for longer but will be slightly firmer which can make it harder for a small food processor to blend. If you chill it for longer, just leave it at room temperature for 15-30 minutes to soften it slightly.
Scoop the mixture into a small food processor (like a small coffee grinder) and blend for about 10 seconds until completely smooth. Scrape down the sides and blend again if needed.
Add it to a piping bag and use as needed. It will be quite soft but once piped can then be placed into the fridge to firm up slightly.
Into a small bow, whisk together the sugar and xanthan gum. It is a very small quantity, so you need a micro scale.
Add the chopped chocolate to a tall measuring jug and set aside.
Into a medium saucepan, add the milk, cream and egg yolks.
Whisk it over a medium/low heat until it reaches around 80-82C on a digital thermometer, being careful not to scramble it. Immediately remove it from the heat and pass it through a sieve over the chopped chocolate.
Let it sit for 2 minutes, then using a hand blender, blend until smooth, whilst pouring in the xanthan/sugar mixture at the same time.
Transfer the mixture to a tray and cover the surface directly with clingfilm. Refrigerate for 2 hours until it feels like a soft, pipeable consistency. If you chill it for longer, just leave it at room temperature for 15-30 minutes to soften it slightly.
Add it directly into a ping bag and use as needed. There is no need to whisk it.
Into a small bowl, add the powdered gelatin and cold water. Stir to combine and set aside to bloom for 10 minutes.
Into a medium saucepan, add the milk and liquid glucose. Place it over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it is steaming. Remove from the heat and add in the bloomed gelatin, stirring until it has dissolved.
Slowly pour it over the melted chocolate in three parts, stirring vigorously to ensure it emulsifies. Initially it may look slightly split, but it will pull back together as you stir.
It is easier at this point to transfer this mixture to a tall measuring jug, then add the cold cream and blend with a hand blender until smooth.
Transfer the mixture to a tray and cover the surface directly with clingfilm. Refrigerate for 4 hours or longer.
When ready to use, transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and whisk by hand (not an electric mixer) and briefly whisk until it holds a medium peak. It won't take long so don't over whisk it.
Add it into a piping bag and use as needed.
